Paperclip, rolo, box, ball, oval or circle: which chain is best for charms?

Paperclip, rolo, box, ball, oval or circle, compared.

By the Ilene Joy Atelier3 min read

Rolo chain necklace in solid yellow gold with a diamond centre ring

For most charm necklaces, start with an oval or paperclip chain in Petite or Standard. Both are light and let a charm show clearly. Choose box or rolo for a heavier, more structured look, ball for a smooth modern line, and circle for a classic, fluid drape. Link size matters as much as link shape.

A paperclip chain necklace in solid gold

The six chains, side by side

We make six chains in solid gold, each in three link sizes: Petite, Standard and Jumbo. Each comes in 14K or 18K, in yellow, rose or white gold, at 16, 20 or 24 inches.

The prices below are the chain alone, in 14K yellow gold at 16 inches, read from our product pages on 19 October 2026. Charms are priced separately. Prices follow the daily gold rate, so check the page on the day you order.

Chain	The link	How it reads	Petite	Standard
Oval	Elongated, softly rounded	An easy, soft drape	$635	$2,441
Paperclip	Long, flat, graphic	Clean and modern, looks finished bare	$998	$3,835
Circle	Round, open	Classic, fluid drape	$1,683	$6,472
Ball	Polished spheres, no open links	Smooth, the most modern line	$1,938	$7,452
Rolo	Rounded, uniform, compact	Substantial, dense gold	$2,554	$9,819
Box	Crisp square links	Architectural, catches light in flashes	$2,556	$9,828

The price gap reflects the gold in each chain and the work in each link. Box and rolo cost the most at every size, oval the least.

Which chain suits which charm

Think about what the chain has to do. It carries the charm and stays out of its way.

One small charm. Oval or paperclip in Petite. The chain is fine, so the charm is the first thing you see.

A larger medallion. Circle, box or rolo in Standard. A bigger medallion sits more comfortably against a chain with some presence. Our rolo page describes it as a sturdy base for a heavier charm arrangement.

Several charms. Paperclip or oval in Standard gives you room to space them out. You can read more about spacing in how many charms to wear on one necklace.

A chain you want to wear bare some days. Paperclip. It looks finished on its own.

A very smooth look. Ball. There are no open links, just a run of polished gold spheres.

Petite, Standard or Jumbo

Our builder describes the three sizes this way: Petite is fine and delicate, Standard is the everyday weight, and Jumbo is bold, with statement links.

Each step up is a large step in price. A Standard oval is about four times the price of a Petite oval. Jumbo is about twice again.

If you are unsure, start at Standard for a necklace you will wear every day, and Petite for a second, finer chain to layer with it. The layered necklace guide shows how lengths work together.

Bracelet or necklace

The same six chains are available as bracelets, in four wrist sizes: Small (6 to 6.5 inches), Medium (6.5 to 7), Large (7 to 7.5) and X-Large (7.5 to 8). A Petite oval bracelet starts at $798 in 14K yellow gold, as priced in the builder on 19 October 2026. Which to wear first, a necklace or a bracelet, is a question of its own.

See it before you decide

Photographs can only say so much. In Design your own you pick a chain, add a charm and switch to the on-model view. The total changes as you choose. Change the chain and watch what happens to both the look and the price.

The six chains are also described one by one on their product pages, and our guide to choosing 14k or 18k covers the other big decision.

About Ilene Joy

Ilene designed jewelry for the last three seasons of Sex and the City, as WWD reported in February 2019. She relaunched the label that year with her daughter, Rae, and every piece is made to order at our Los Angeles bench. As seen in WWD, National Jeweler, Grazia, Fashion Week Daily and Just Jared: read the coverage. More on who Ilene Joy is.

Questions and answers

Frequently asked questions

What is the best chain for a charm necklace?

There is no single best chain. For most people, an oval or paperclip chain in Petite or Standard is the easiest place to start. Pick box or rolo for weight and structure, ball for a smooth line, and circle for a classic drape. The right one depends on the charm and how you want it to sit.

Paperclip or rolo for charms?

Paperclip has long, flat links and a graphic line. It looks finished without a charm and shows one or two charms well. Rolo is compact and dense, a sturdy base for a heavier arrangement. Rolo costs more than paperclip at the same link size.

Are box and ball chains too heavy for charms?

No. Both carry charms well. Box has square links with a precise, architectural look. Ball is a run of polished spheres with no open links. They are also our higher-priced chains at each link size.

Which link size should I choose, Petite, Standard or Jumbo?

Petite is fine and delicate. Standard is the everyday weight. Jumbo is bold, with statement links. Most first necklaces are Standard. Petite works well as a second, finer chain for layering.

Do the chains come in all three golds?

Yes. Every chain comes in yellow, rose or white gold, in 14K or 18K. Charms follow the color of your chain, and you can change any one of them in the builder.

How long does a chain take to make?

Each piece is made to order at our Los Angeles bench and is typically ready in 2 to 4 weeks. Shipping within the US is complimentary and fully insured. See shipping and returns.